Baja - Winter Watchman

10/11/2013

Packing up for winter. 

"Who is going to look after Sam all winter?" That was the question that came from most all the guests that heard him asking for attention throughout their stay. The stock answer was "Mark will." Most thought it was a joke, but last week as the last of the visitors set to the sky on their way back home, the reality of spending the winter here in Punta San Carlos came true. All the equipment has been de-rigged and packed away until the guests start arriving again in April, there are no tents to distract the sun rising over the mesa and the waves crash on an empty beach enjoyed only by the odd dolphin or three.

Sam Carlos.

After travelling for seven months and still no idea of where or what next the opportunity arose to take on the role as winter watchman for the Solosports camp, I thought when does one ever get 5 months to do with whatever they please and I had to accept. What is that you say, I have just spent seven months doing whatever I please, how is this different? Well for starters I am not going anywhere, I can't. I am in a camp two and a half hours by dirt track to the nearest town with no means of transport. I have no commitments or schedules to keep and the only means of communication is the internet and even that is limited to 400Mb a day. The only things that demand my attention are the wind, the waves and Sam.

Those who have heard that I will be here all winter have asked but won't you get lonely and bored. To them and those who are reading this I thank you for your concern and offer up the solution of my wishlists page.

Actually I am not completely alone, other than Sam there is also another human here, Tony. Tony has spent 12 winters looking after camp, mostly on his own with only the occasional visitors chasing the winter swell to distinguish one day from another. He seems to have modelled a good existence for himself, working 7 months of the year and having 5 off, I aught to learn how he has achieved this. He will be here until early February when the temperature drops and the winter storms which bring in the big swell start to wane. From then it will be Sam and myself for a couple of months until we reopen the camp to guests. If I survive the winter and haven't turned entirely feral I'll stay on next season to play barman again.

Tony enjoying the waves to himself.

From the few days that have passed since the camp shut down, I think my days will look something like this: Wake up to crashing waves, warm sun on my bed and the incessant begging of Sam for his breakfast. Before I can finishing preparing breakfast for myself, Sam has wolfed down his and is asking for more. By the time he has realised he is not getting more and gone to sleep on his chair the conditions will have been assessed and the decision made as to SUP or surf. After a good morning session a coffee or tea will be in order as the wait for the tide to turn and wind to build is spent enjoying a book or photographs. If a windsurfing session doesn't happen in the afternoon it will be replaced by a bike ride or a sunset surf, perhaps even yoga. In sync with the sun disappearing over the horizon Sam will start begging for his dinner which will prompt me to think of mine. After dinner, the darkness will have convinced me that it is far later than it actually is and I'll turn in for the night, sometimes with a movie to aid my dreams . Wow sounds like I have already got a routine, welcome to ground hog day.

After living in a tent for two months I decided something a bit more comfortable was needed for winter

After 5 months I hope to be a decent waterman and to have completed a number of personal projects that I am working on. One of which I have already started and that is my photography portfolio which can be found at www.luckybeanz.com or on Facebook. Another is trying to convince someone to sponsor me a soloshot so that I can track my waterman progress and get some more footage to hone my video editing skills.

Pondering over a beer.

Most evenings I watch the sunset and ponder to myself how the hell did I get here, in this position? I still haven't quite worked that one out, maybe it is the why not philosophy, it doesn't really matter, I am just grateful to be able to live these experiences. I came to Punta San Carlos for a month of wind and waves and to figure a possible way into the windsurfing industry. Two months on I am still here, I suppose one could say working in the industry. I am excited to see how this shapes me and where the experience will take me, so keep an eye out for the occasional update on life as a beach bum.

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The Lord Shall Provide

04/08/2013

I am probably going to get arrested for this...

When I arrived in Bermuda yesterday evening I did not have an onward flight booked nor did I have accommodation. I had planned to book a flight later in a the week as prices dropped and airlines tried to fill seats and my couchsurfing requests fell on mostly deaf ears aside for a few that weren't able to host. So when I got the border control, I knew it might be an interesting conversation. I could have avoided it, I guess, by lying on my immigration form and just filling in a random hotel address and number of nights I intended to stay, but I wanted to see if honestly is really the best policy.

It is not. After a brief chuckle the immigration officer referred me, which means sent me to the little room where they try and figure out what to do with you. There I was given two options:
a) I get back on the plane I arrived on and head back to London - not something I really wanted but wouldn't have been the end of the world.
b) I book an onward flight and accommodation and they would let me in to the airport - sounded like an okay option.

Having explained to immigration that I wanted the cheapest flight to the States in the next few weeks and didn't care were it was to, he decided that I was going to New York and that I was booking it at the airport in front of him. So he marched me to the American Airline office and a few discussions and $300 later I had a flight to New York leaving Thursday. Next up was the accommodation, which after a number of phone calls it was settled that I was going to stay at some guest house which was going to cost me $150 a night, he booked me in for one night (I said I would find somewhere else today), stamped my passport and about an hour after I landed, I stepped out into the sticky tropical air. I left in such a hurry that I forgot my recently booked airline tickets on his desk and had to return a second time to collect them, I could see the look on the immigration officers faces said, "This guy certainly ain't all there upstairs."

I got on the bus towards Hamilton after a lovely lady gave me her last two bus tokens, I was meant to change in Hamilton and get on another bus to find the accommodation I had "booked", maybe it was the lack of sleep or just the unknown of a new country, but I missed the stop and only approached the bus driver about an hour into the bus ride. By this time we were well passed the stop I needed so I was to get off and wait for the bus in the opposite direction. It was late and by this time I was extremely tired having only slept 3hrs the night before, I couldn't face searching for the accommodation, nor did I want to pay the $150 to stay there. I got off the bus and found what looked like a church, here I found a little grassy patch and lay down for the night.

View of the church this morning

My little green patch

I can't say it was the best night's sleep, but it was free. I don't know where I shall sleep tonight, but apparently there is a camp-site nearby which should suffice provided it does not rain. 

Maybe where I sleep tonight. 

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Escaping the Bubble

27/07/2013

I woke up this morning still shrouded in the haze of last night's Club Vass BBQ and rolled over to enjoy the discovery that I still had ten minutes before my alarm was to go off. Half an hour later the need for a pee saved me from pressing snooze again and just as well as it would have resulted in a morning frenzy which I was not in the state to achieve.

As most travellers, I am sure will attest to, when living out of a backpack you become somewhat of a master of packing and while I am well on my way to achieving this state, I am not quite there yet as this morning would prove. An hour after getting up I was sticky with an alcoholic sweat and had only just finished packing my backpack, I still had my camera bag to sort and had to assess the items I was leaving behind. The idea of breakfast was forgotten. One last glance around the room and a made for the ferry terminal, picking up my pace as I passed the proprietor of the house I was staying in out of fear he would go up to the room and come running after me with all the possessions and food I had left in the room.

I made it to the ferry terminal with plenty of time to spare, annoyed that I hadn't timed it better and had some breakfast. When the ferry arrived I looked at the number of cars wanting to board pondered how they were all going to fit. Some time later I woke up in Kefalonia with people shuffling past me to get off the ferry none the wiser as to how they managed to fit all the cars on board. The plan was to get the bus to the airport, though everyone I had spoken to who had taken it failed to mention that there is only one bus a day and it leaves at 8:30am, it was now 13:00. I sat down with a frappé to contemplate my next steps. The frappé man seemed to take a shining to me, maybe it was the remnants of the guy-liner from the night before, so once I had decided that the only option was to walk and hitch my way to the airport I got him to fill my water bottle and set off up the hill.

The Italians stopped to let me take in the view.

About 1.5km up the hill I was drenched and had almost finished all my water, not to mention the kink in my back from lugging my bags uphill. It was time to try my hand at hitching, not something I have done much of in my time and after the first 20 or so cars I decided that karma would not be on my side as I certainly have not picked up enough hikers in my life. Finally an Italian family stopped and although they could barely fit my luggage and me into their tiny rental they were happy to cart me on to the next main town and even bought me an ice-cream along the way. After bidding them farewell I started to regret my decision to get out at a cross roads instead of at the next town. Plenty of cars passing through but all in the opposite direction to the airport. Finally an empty taxi pulled up, I explained to him that I was trying to get to the airport but had no money to pay for a taxi. He said not to worry he will take me on to the town he was heading to for a pick-up. He dropped me on top of a pass and said it was about 30min walk to the next to town or 2hrs to the airport, I thanked him and stuck out my thumb again. It was 3pm and my flight was at 8pm so I figured the worst case would be walking the town and catching a taxi from there. The worst case didn't happen, again another taxi came past and after the same conversation as before I found myself enjoying the air-conditioning of his Mercedes and heading in the direction of the airport.

Thumb out. 

I tried to give him the 5 euros in my pocket when he dropped me at the terminal but he refused and with a smile wished me luck on the rest of my travels. Now sitting waiting for my flight, I can't help but let my mind wander back to the words of an earlier post, "Just ask."

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I hope it catches on

I recently shared a post about babies on planes, today I read an article that made me even happier.  Samoa Air airlines has implemented a pay-as-you-weigh policy, boldly tackling an issue other have found too delicate to talk about.

Before you shout and say that is so wrong and unfair, think of this:

"It works both ways. People who pay more deserve more. ... So, it is in our interests that we take care of the people that who've chalked in at 150, 180 kilograms (330, 396 pounds). They've paid their fare and the we try to give them what they should have, which is a comfortable seat. We try to make sure they have space around them, that taller people have got more leg room -- within the confines of the airplane these days we try to do it."

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Just Ask

With the entries for mydestination now closed, I doubt my 84 votes will get me anywhere when the finalists are announced on the 15th April.  Regardless of the outcome though, I know at least some good came of this experience.

Shortly before submitting my entry, I stumbled upon the following video:



Now being someone who has never liked asking for things, probably due to the fact that I don't want to feel in debt to anyone, this video really made me think.

So during the competition, I decided to try something different, I decided to "Just ask" and sent messages to a bunch of the windsurfing pages I subscribe to on Facebook.  The result was having my entry posted on Windsurfing Magazine, SoloSport, Queen Mary Windsurfing Club and Contentseven.

I guess the real reason we don't ask for things is the fear of rejection. When ultimately we should be thinking, the worst case is that the answer is no, and if the answer is no? You are no worse off than if you had not asked in the first place.  It is an everything to gain, nothing to lose situation. 

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Baja Photos

For my recent entry to the mydestionations travel competition I put together the following video from some pictures I had taken while at Solosports in Baja.



A few people who have voted have asked if they can get hold of the hi res versions of the pictures. So here they are.  All I ask is that if you like them you go over to http://www.mydestination.com/users/luckybeanz/bbb#tab and vote for my entry so that I can capture more.

Go to flickr to download hi res versions.

Empty Beaches

Perfect Conditions

Inspirational Locals

Inspirational Locals

Inspirational Locals

Morning Surf Sessions

Morning Surf Sessions

Rustic Living

Rustic Living

Stunning Sunsets

Stunning Sunsets

Enjoying a Fog At The End of The Day

Don't forget to vote.

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Something Special

It is commonly cited that it was environmental pressures that pushed our forefathers to up sticks and venture out of Africa...

I like to think it was a deep-seated desire for exploration and adventure. After the advent of agriculture, boredom surely got to hold them and they could not explain the unsettled feeling that drove them to walk further and further from their comforts.  

Boredom is the opposite of happiness and these guys certainly know that we are at our happiest when seeking adventure. 

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The second event

Friday 28th of December 2012 
10:30am:  I am sitting in my office in Stockholm. It is normally bustling with 40 plus staff members but today? I am alone.  The emptiness of the tall ceilings seems to reflect the turmoil that is brewing inside me, while last night’s discussion and its abrupt ending only serves to feed the unsettled itch.  I have been sitting here for a couple hours and have achieved exactly nothing, it has been like this all week, but today it is worse. I need to escape.

11:30am: Done. Hands still shaking from the rush, clammy as I stick my credit card back in my wallet and re-read the email I just sent to my boss:

“Hej,

I have a small personal issue that I need to take care of. Though it requires me to be away for a bit, returning to work on Friday the 11th.

The only urgent meeting I shall miss is kicking off the eager/lazy project on Tues, but Jonas can handle that for me.

Sorry for the inconvenience. I will have my laptop on me so can be reached via email for any emergencies.

Regards,
“

Saturday 29th of December 2012 
06:30am (CET): Delta airlines ticketing lady at Arlanda airport, “No, your card has not been charged, we were unable to issued the ticket yesterday as we require 24 hours notice for online bookings. I can issue the ticket now if you like?”

If I were at all superstitious or maybe the least bit sensible I would have told her not to worry and turned around to go home and back to bed.  I am not. With 50 minutes to take off, I find myself handing over my credit card details to book a trans-Atlantic flight for the second time in as many days.  She apologies for not being able to book a vegetarian meal for the first leg of the flight, but says I should speak to the ground staff in Paris to see if they can arrange something for me.

10:30pm (MST):  After 26 hours of travel I am sitting on the doorstep of an empty house in the idle suburbs of Phoenix, Arizona.  It is surprisingly chilly and I am glad for having travelled from the -14 °C of Stockholm.  Despite having been awake for over 30 hours, the cool night air, incessant yapping of dogs alarmed by a stranger at their doorstep and the million thoughts vying for attention in my head are keeping me awake.  The thought that dominates presents itself, “You stupid fool, she has no reason to even let you through the door let alone listen to what you have to say. Where do you intend on sleeping tonight?”

Monday 14th January 2013
10:00am (CET):  Back in Stockholm, the calm provided by the escape to Arizona beginning to fade but the clarity of thoughts remains. Or maybe the clarity has only broken through as the haze from a weekend in LA finally dissipates.  Either way I know the conversation I am having is the right one:

Boss: What did you want to talk to me about?
Me: Well, and I am sorry for starting your week off on a difficult note, but I want to hand in my resignation.
Boss: Oh, I did not expect that. Are you going somewhere else, don’t you like Stockholm?
Me: No. I really like Stockholm, but I’m burnt out, I just can’t do this anymore.
Boss: I understand, are you going to stay in Stockholm?  What is your plan?
Me: No, it is too expensive to be unemployed in Stockholm. I don’t have a plan; I don’t know what I want to do. I just know it is not this.  Maybe I will go back to South Africa for a bit?


That was event two.   Okay so it was a series of events but they culminated in where we are today.  As of the end of April I shall be a vagabond, my life condensed to a backpack; my dreams and desires opened wide and allowed to explore what it means to be free, with no given cause.

I have recently enjoyed the scribbling and pictures of other friends who have set themselves on similar adventures.  Since I have not had the foresight to define an end goal, destination or date to this chapter of my life; I have no doubt that the experiences and interactions with others will influence my direction before I set off and along the way.  In fact that that is a requirement of this chapter and one I urge you to get involved in.  How you ask?  Well let us start by choosing my shell.

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A reason

"Most big questions we feel compelled to face - handed down through centuries of overthinking and mis-translation - use terms so undefined as to make attempting to answer them a complete waste of time. This isn't depressing. It's liberating." - Tim Ferriss

As I read the above passage I was transported to a moment two years ago whilst traveling through India.  I was in a taxi with a good friend and a girl we had met a couple days earlier. We had been up since dawn making our way to a local picnic spot, hidden in the hills of Kochi.  The conversation had gone through its regular paces and was poised on religion.  She, like me, had grown up with a religious background and her travels had her questioning and looking for new answers.

She was struggling with the fact that I did not believe in a god anymore and wanted to know if I didn't believe in a god, then why am I here? What is the meaning of life?

I smiled at her, a smile filled with the excitement of having just traversed India in a rickshaw, and said, "Why do you need a reason, why not just be?  It is far more liberating not having one."

I still hold that mantra, stop looking for a reason to be and just be.

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Why not?

I have been working in online media for some years now and over the past few, one company has really captivated my attention.  That company is Red Bull.  To be more precise, Red Bull Media House. 

I am sure most people reading this have either heard of them or watched something produced by them and have been blown away by the awe inspiring cinematography in films such as the art of flight and the signature series. One might think that alone is what would inspire an appreciation for a company that was once just an energy drink manufacturer. 

Though what I find most inspiring and aspirational is their ability to ask why not when others ask why.

Shall we send a man to the edge of space in a tin can and let him plummet back to the marble we live on with only a piece of cloth to save him. Why not?

Shall we take a sport that is already pushing the limits of what we thought possible and push it that little bit further. Why not?

Shall we create an entirely new sport, one in which the only contestants we will find that are mad enough to partake are those that have left their fear mashed up against a plexiglass wall? Why not?

The latest one I have been keeping an eye on and it hits straight to another passion of mine, one which I am sure I'll be writing more about, is the Red Bull Storm Chase.  

If you thought the guys in the discover series storm chasers were a bit doolally you will certainly want to check this out. 

While on the subject of inspiration.  If there is one thing you watch before January is out, I urge it to be this. When everyone else would be asking why is this happening to me, why should I have such a hard life, Dewey Bozella instead said why not make my dream happen?

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In the begining

I have been contemplating writing a blog for sometime now, ever since I did it for an epic trip through India, though I have never considered that I have much to write about. Besides who would read it?

Two recent events have made me reconsider that position and thus I am starting this blog.  I don't know what I shall fill these pages with or who could be bothered to read them. Nor does it matter.  It is likely that some of what I post may be offensive to some if they stumble upon it. To that I say get over it, these are my views and if you disagree with them I urge you to comment with your own so that I may consider incorporating them into my notion of the world.

As to what those two events were, well one will be the subject of my next post, the other you will have wait, religiously coming back on a daily basis to check what it might be.

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