Old Lion's Trail

Click for full trail map.

Just when I think this place can't get any better it presents another one of its gems to me.

That is what happened a few days ago when I finally took on Old Lion's Trail, the longest and toughest of the marked mountain bike trails here. I had been putting it off, making excuses for myself such as I am not fit enough yet or am not experienced enough with cleats, generally just being a wissy. On this day it was high tide in the morning which meant no waves to get back to before lunch and I had discovered on my previous ride that I can now go over the handlebars and unclip at the same time, so there were no excuses left. I hadn't actually intended to do it, but I have a tendency to get lost and then keep telling myself just around the next corner there will be a trail marker. Only this time just around the corner became just over that ridge and beyond that giant cactus I'll find the trail again.

I could see the trail to my left luring me further and further up the ridge with the promise of connecting to it. By the time it did connect I was already a third of the way up the mesa and feeling fit so I decided to keep on going, besides I had an energy bar with which to reward myself when I made it to the apex of the trail which is also about half way. The first section of the trail climbed along a ridge over loose rocks with cacti and other pricklies leaning in to deter me from putting a foot down and to keep on climbing. Eventually the trail got the better of me and my pace was not quick enough to make it over a couple of larger rocks so a foot went down and I took the opportunity to look back over the bronzed landscape with splatterings of green and purple towards the camp and out over the Pacific where I could see the lines starting to form for and afternoon surf session. Ahead of me was a barren, golden sand face standing tall, surely a whiteness to countless adventures over the years, edged by two ravens circling their territory. Onwards.

Rocky trail. 

Making it to the apex I excitedly took off my day pack to get out my energy bar, digging around among spare tubes and water bottles I pulled out an open packet thinking I must have left a half eaten one in there from a previous ride. Closer inspection revealed that it was not I who had eaten my energy bar but a furry critter who obviously found it to be good roughage as had left the remains of the bar littered with little black droppings. I refreshed with some water. As if knowing my snack reward had been soiled the second half of the trail presented itself to me as just under two miles of undulating single track downhill bliss. It had it all from rocky sections wanting to flick my rear tire from under me to compacted sand track hugging the side of a face I didn't fancy sliding down. As if the trail itself wasn't challenging enough, the views vying for my attention were enough to put even the sturdiest biker off their guard so it was a with smile of excited, exhausted relief that I reached to bottom intact.


Following more familiar trails back to camp, I found myself composing this post and glowing at how this place keeps getting better. The day was concluded surfing the lines I had spotted from the roof of the trail leaving my body aching from exercise and aching for more.

Windsurfing till the sun goes down :)

It is days like these, fringed by days like today where the morning was spent SUPing on glassy small waves; the pre lunch crinkle-cut waves consumed with long boarding and then windsurfing into the evening watching the ocean turn to purple around me in the sunset, that give me comfort in my decision to enjoy this lifestyle and question why I didn't do it earlier.

Tweet

Goodbye 2013

A year that started in the cold, dark snow of a Swedish winter and ended in the warm, gentle sun of Mexican one. Over 12 countries visited and life changing decisions made, 2013 has truly been one to remember. Thank you to everyone of those who I was fortunate to interact with along the way, most importantly those who supported me in following my passions and welcomed me into their homes. 

Some of the countries along the way.  

I am really excited to see what take shape in 2014, being based in Punta San Carlos and experiencing a lifestyle many only dream of.  To learning new skills and improving old ones. 

Adiós 2013

Tweet

Publicerad

That is published in Swedish, though I am not sure I can claim published when it is only a blog.  Either way it is nice to see my photos being used and to get some coverage on one of Sweden's best know windsurfing sites.

Link to post

Tweet

The Meaning of Life

As I wallow in the zesty afterglow of a solid day on the water, my thoughts trail back to a session I had a few weeks ago. It was the first time I had gone out windsurfing since getting back from a trip to the States, there weren't many waves but the wind was enough to make it fun. I had made a few good gybes and had thrown in some duck gybes to test myself, when it suddenly occurred to me, this is the meaning of life. Improvement.

The concept has been rattling around in my head since and the more I think about it, the more I have to conclude that it is that age old question cracked. One first has to consider what are we really asking when we ask, "What is the meaning of life?" I am going to make the assumption that what we are actually asking is, "What is the purpose of life?" Or more specifically, "What is my reason for being?". When phrased like that the answer makes more sense, the aim of our lives, all life is to improve.

Tony during the session that left the glow.

Think about it. You buy a bigger house, a faster car; you are improving your belongings (by traditional standards). You study, you practice sport; so you can improve your knowledge or skill level in your field. You go to the gym, go on diet; you are improving your body, most likely so that you can improve your chances of finding a better mate and therefore result in offspring that have better genes. I guess this isn't a new idea, evolutionists have essentially been saying the same thing for awhile now, evolution is the result of mutation the improves a beings chances of survival and thus its chances of passing on its genes.

This has lead me to conclude that we are happiest when we can see ourselves improving in some area. Ever noticed how self help books are always based around an improved you? The problem here lies in the fact that we are constantly measuring ourselves on a daily or even hourly basis such that the improvements are so minute that we do not notice them. It is like watching a plant grow, if you actually look at it every hour or day, you won't notice that it is getting bigger but if you don't look at it for a week and then check it, you will likely notice a significant difference. The same is true for measuring our improvement, when we take a break from something, our reference to how good we were at it remains the same so when we get back to it we notice our improvement more against that previous reference.

For me this has been the case since getting back on the water after a couple weeks away, not only have I noticed an improvement in my windsurfing but also SUP and surfing which has meant enjoying myself even more and general happiness. So if you are getting frustrated with yourself or down on your purpose in life, take a break, try something new - it is easy to see improvement from nothing to something, more difficult from something to something. When you get back to what ever it was that you were focusing on you will notice the improvement and thus on top of the improvement noticed trying something new you will feel a sense of purpose and renewed enjoyment manifesting itself as all round happiness.

Tweet

Final Taste

It is hard to believe that it has been over a month since we closed camp for the winter and tied down anything that was liable to blow away in the dreaded Santa Ana winds. Despite a few days seeming to go on forever, the month has passed relatively speedily, probably due to the various interjections which have broken it up.

The brothers enjoying a longboard session/

To begin we had a couple of visitors in camp. Two brothers who where cycling from San Francisco to Cabo San Lucas with their surfboards, seeking out the perfect waves. They stopped by the camp for a few nights to stock up on food and water before moving on down the coast. I enjoyed having the guys here and it was great to chat to them about their journey and breaking down perceptions of how dangerous the trip was. I relished in the contrast that America still has a travel advisory out against people travelling to Baja, Mexico while the guys were telling me how much easier it had been travelling in Mexico where everyone went out of their way to help and accommodate them apposed to in America where most people treated them like bums. After a couple days sharing waves and even a windsurfing lesson they managed to negotiate a lift in a fishing boat down the coast, once again proving the willingness of the locals to help out where they can.

All closed up. 

A few days after the boys left Kevin, Joey and Tim were back in camp to pick up some gear and to put the finishing touches on the winter shutdown. We put a new roof on the board room from which I am still finding tar spots on various parts of my body and boarded up the exposed areas of camp, leaving it looking somewhat deserted. I took the opportunity to get a lift back to the States with Joey to get my last fix of civilisation for the year. He was kind enough to let me tag along to a weekend away in Lake Havasu, Arizona. While the place was completely dead, they assured me that during season it is the place to be with massive boat parties and scantly clad twenty somethings soaking up the sun. The sun did not make an appearance for us so instead we soaked up the beer in the local bar whilst entertaining the lonely barman with pearls of whiskey wisdom.

With my tan beginning to fade it was time to head back west and pop in at Palm Springs for a couple of days to visit a few friends who were also passing through. I couldn't help but feel that it, like so many other American cities, is a place to check off any extended stay list. Strip malls and cookie cutter neighbourhoods just don't do it for me, if I am going to live in a city it is going to be one where things are on top of each other and I can at least walk to my local pub. Stopping in Palm Springs did afford me the opportunity to catch the train to San Diego which is something I have been itching to do since arriving in the States almost 5 months ago. Okay so it was a bus to Fullerton and then a train but it still made for a scenic journey and gave me just a small taste of what it would be like to explore the States by rail. As I have mentioned before, rail is my most preferred method of travel and I find there to be something extra alluring about American train travel, maybe it is the culture of train-hopping manifesting itself in a more elegant form. For the most part the train hugs the coast, passing by the houses of the movies and the beaches The Beach Boys sang about, stirring up notions of California dreaming and making it a must on anyone visiting the areas itinerary.

I had only intended to stop in San Diego a couple of nights but found myself staying a little longer as I covered the extremities of the city in search of a new laptop power adaptor. The traversing of the city provided a snapshot into the "dirtier" side of America which at times had me had me pondering how a country can be so involved in everyone else's affairs when it has so many issues to sort out itself? This created a bit of a conflict inside me as that part so wanted to run away from the mask of consumerist behaviour back to the solitude of Punta San Carlos while another part enjoyed the bustle, the conversations and the coffee shops. Which leaves me contemplating how I can model a life that allows me to dip in and out of these two personalities as I please?

When the time came to leave San Diego there were difficult goodbyes to say and new ideas and perceptions to mull over on the trip south. So early Sunday morning I trudged, sleepy eyed over the border to get on a bus which would take me to El Rosario where I had arranged to have someone meet me and take me the next two hours to camp. The journey was an easy one, the bus was comfy, come to think of it so comfy that I slept most of the way, and my lift was there as arranged though it certainly affirmed that if I am going to be staying in Mexico, I need to learn Spanish. Fortunately Joey introduced me to www.duolingo.com, which I would recommend to anyone trying to learn a language. I feel I have learnt more Spanish in the week I have been back than I learnt Swedish in the 6 months of living there.

It seems as if in the couple of weeks away winter decided to move in. The days seem far shorter with sunrise around 6 and sunset around 5, nothing like winter in Sweden mind, and there is a definite nip in the air. The wind was scarce for the first few days, but I caught the back end of a good swell and managed to get a few SUPing and surfing sessions in. I have enjoyed both sports, hell I am enjoying becoming a more rounded waterman but it is the surfing that has surprised me. I could go into a whole monologue as to what it is like being out there in the water alone or what surfing means to me but I recently read a post from a friend which sums read far me eloquently than my words. So instead I'll leave you with the link and the words: It really does take only one wave to make it all worth it.

Tweet

Baja - Winter Watchman

10/11/2013

Packing up for winter. 

"Who is going to look after Sam all winter?" That was the question that came from most all the guests that heard him asking for attention throughout their stay. The stock answer was "Mark will." Most thought it was a joke, but last week as the last of the visitors set to the sky on their way back home, the reality of spending the winter here in Punta San Carlos came true. All the equipment has been de-rigged and packed away until the guests start arriving again in April, there are no tents to distract the sun rising over the mesa and the waves crash on an empty beach enjoyed only by the odd dolphin or three.

Sam Carlos.

After travelling for seven months and still no idea of where or what next the opportunity arose to take on the role as winter watchman for the Solosports camp, I thought when does one ever get 5 months to do with whatever they please and I had to accept. What is that you say, I have just spent seven months doing whatever I please, how is this different? Well for starters I am not going anywhere, I can't. I am in a camp two and a half hours by dirt track to the nearest town with no means of transport. I have no commitments or schedules to keep and the only means of communication is the internet and even that is limited to 400Mb a day. The only things that demand my attention are the wind, the waves and Sam.

Those who have heard that I will be here all winter have asked but won't you get lonely and bored. To them and those who are reading this I thank you for your concern and offer up the solution of my wishlists page.

Actually I am not completely alone, other than Sam there is also another human here, Tony. Tony has spent 12 winters looking after camp, mostly on his own with only the occasional visitors chasing the winter swell to distinguish one day from another. He seems to have modelled a good existence for himself, working 7 months of the year and having 5 off, I aught to learn how he has achieved this. He will be here until early February when the temperature drops and the winter storms which bring in the big swell start to wane. From then it will be Sam and myself for a couple of months until we reopen the camp to guests. If I survive the winter and haven't turned entirely feral I'll stay on next season to play barman again.

Tony enjoying the waves to himself.

From the few days that have passed since the camp shut down, I think my days will look something like this: Wake up to crashing waves, warm sun on my bed and the incessant begging of Sam for his breakfast. Before I can finishing preparing breakfast for myself, Sam has wolfed down his and is asking for more. By the time he has realised he is not getting more and gone to sleep on his chair the conditions will have been assessed and the decision made as to SUP or surf. After a good morning session a coffee or tea will be in order as the wait for the tide to turn and wind to build is spent enjoying a book or photographs. If a windsurfing session doesn't happen in the afternoon it will be replaced by a bike ride or a sunset surf, perhaps even yoga. In sync with the sun disappearing over the horizon Sam will start begging for his dinner which will prompt me to think of mine. After dinner, the darkness will have convinced me that it is far later than it actually is and I'll turn in for the night, sometimes with a movie to aid my dreams . Wow sounds like I have already got a routine, welcome to ground hog day.

After living in a tent for two months I decided something a bit more comfortable was needed for winter

After 5 months I hope to be a decent waterman and to have completed a number of personal projects that I am working on. One of which I have already started and that is my photography portfolio which can be found at www.luckybeanz.com or on Facebook. Another is trying to convince someone to sponsor me a soloshot so that I can track my waterman progress and get some more footage to hone my video editing skills.

Pondering over a beer.

Most evenings I watch the sunset and ponder to myself how the hell did I get here, in this position? I still haven't quite worked that one out, maybe it is the why not philosophy, it doesn't really matter, I am just grateful to be able to live these experiences. I came to Punta San Carlos for a month of wind and waves and to figure a possible way into the windsurfing industry. Two months on I am still here, I suppose one could say working in the industry. I am excited to see how this shapes me and where the experience will take me, so keep an eye out for the occasional update on life as a beach bum.

Tweet

Baja Blur

31/10/2013

Heading home to roost.

After 7 weeks here in Punta San Carlos I can't really tell what happened in which week any more. All the happenings seem to have blurred into one incredible experience. I guess that is part of the magic of this place, time as we normally perceive it doesn't seem to apply and with most leaving watches and cell phones safely tucked away in their tents, why should it? The days now start when the sun peeks over the mesa and heats the tents as if it were smoking bees from their hive and end when one too many fogs have been consumed and the body and mind shut down with the camp lights.

Another day starts atPunta San Carlos

While time doesn't exist for those on extended breaks it surely passes too quickly for those who only have a week or two to spare, I know that was the case for those on the Mat Pritchard Windsurfing Camp where the wind and waves were a bit shy. Despite only having a few good days of water time they managed to fill the gaps with mountain biking and watching windsurfing movies in anticipation of what might be. I think the movies gave some of the windsurfers too much inspiration as they managed to damage both themselves and the boards when out on the water.

Mat Pritchard making some spray.

Perfect timing.

The board graveyard. 

If the windsurfers on Mat's camp where the damage machines, the kiters on the Liquidforce kite camp which followed were the masters of disaster as the two week clinic saw a number of rather long swims and inventive rescue attempts. The best had to have been when one of the pros had to kite a SUP out to sea to pick up a stranded kiter who was then kited back to shore sitting on the nose of the SUP like a gleeful kid. To add to the drama of the week one of the girls on the camp was bitten by a black widow spider that was sharing her tent, highlighting the reality of this place as an adventure spot not for those seeking the comfort of a Tomsons Holiday. Fortunately there was a doctor on hand to provide the right concoction of drugs sourced from various camp members, including my Valium supply, to see her right until the venom wore off.

At some point during my stay I went from being on holiday to working at a holiday destination when I started filling in barman and resident beach bum with the occasional task of photographer/videographer. I've been enjoying playing barman and taking the opportunity to watch the world from the opposite side I am to which normally on, it does help that we do get our fair share of characters down here, all with stories that make mine seem bland. The video makes a change from photography and after using a 7D I am now pondering how to fund an upgrade from my 50D so that I can add to my skill set and start learning the editing side of things. It is a hard one to justify since I am yet to make much from the photography side though hopefully that will change over the coming months as I add more to my new site www.luckybeanz.com. 

The peanut gallery.

Speaking of video, we had a film crew in camp for a week to film an episode for their series Underexposed which is a documentary series about sports photography. The filming coincided with another windsurfing clinic hosted by Tyson Poor and Wyatt Miller both of whom were promptly added to the collection of pro sports people who are featured in the show. I found the show an intriguing concept mainly because I have an interest in how to make a life as a sports photographer. Though from what I could see most of the footage shot was around the main character trying his hand at various sports, then I guess to be a good sports photographer it does help to know the sports you are shooting. 

underexposed - Season 1 Teaser from AirDog Media on Vimeo.

Despite the actual working I have still been getting my fair share of water time which is starting to pay off. On the windsurfing side my wave riding has improved with even a few attempts at smacking the lip albeit all ending in a splash as my timing still requires some adjustment, though what I am most pleased about is the fact that I can now truly claim to have completed forwards. In the last days of the Tyson/Wyatt camp I mange a couple thanks to their handy tips and there were even people around to witness. There hasn't been much surfing going on but I have managed to get some SUPing in and am now using a rather wobbly 7'10" board which should help the surfing too.

Tyson showing some fins

Tweet